If you need a pool fence then you should get this one. It isn't nearly as unsightly as I first feared it would be. You definitely need a Rotary Hammer Drill to do this job. If you have more than 5 holes (1 panel). Go to your local harbor freight and pay the extra for the ROTARY one. I couldn't complete this job with just a Dewalt Hammer Drill. It didn't have enough power to go through the 4 inches of concrete you need to bust through. You definitely need the longer (5/8 x 14"+ masonry drill bit) as the other reviewers tell you. No one mentioned the rotary hammer drill though in reviews. So that's of note, since I wasted 3 days trying to get the holes I needed with the regular hammer drill and it took me mere minutes with the rotary hammer drill. And the prices werent far off from each other. The directions are pretty good. If you read them thoroughly. I would consider myself and my husband to be entry level DIYers and it took us 4 days (3 wasted with the regular hammer drill though). If you are confused about the difference between drills, I suggest you google hammer drill vs rotary hammer drill. Videos will show you the difference and how quickly each gets through a concrete slab. Definitely buy the guide Pool Fence DIY by Life Saver Drill Guide . Don't cheap out on that. I know its expensive but it's worth it because there is a need to lean some of the poles where you have a turn around the pool. Light leans or heavy leans depend on the angle of the turn. You need the guide for accuracy. We also bought the gate Pool Fence DIY by Life Saver Self-Closing Gate Kit, Black and that worked well for me. But honestly, you don't even need a gate the sections open pretty easily. If you attached the hook and eye they give you. Although I took the advice of some reviewers and did a black ziptie to attached the sections to each other. If you aren't going to remove it a lot, honestly, it looks less obtrusive. Overall, I just put it in...I'll try to update in a few months or year and let you know how it weathers. We do have a whole section that goes into grass and plan to use the method one other reviewer suggested with the pipes in the ground but for right now its staying up fine with just jamming it into the ground. Although, poolfencediy.com has a method they recommend with concrete and copper pipe too. They are your best resource. Overall, its for the safety of my daughter, and you can't put too big a price on that. I was quoted almost the exact fence for the same distance installed and I was going to pay double the amount to have it installed. I would have too. Except now I know the difference between a regular hammer drill and a rotary hammer drill. And I own both! HA! Don't mind the pictures of the dirty pool, it was not completely opened or cleaned yet when the pictures were taken.

This pool fence is awesome and installs quite quickly easily with some planning, following the directions, and using the right tools. I installed 45 feet of this in about 2.5 hours. I did a ton of research and read lots of reviews. As far as their drill guide goes...the general concensus from many reviews is it's overpriced garbage you'll never use again and it may not even give you good results so I decided to make my own for about $10. I purchased at Lowe's a 1/2" x 4.5" iron pipe threaded nipple and a 1/2" iron pipe floor flange. Thread the 2 pieces together and screw down in the center of a piece of wood. I used a scrap piece of some 1" by ? lumber I had laying around that I cut down to approx 4" x 13". I drilled a 3/4" hole of out the center of the wood first. The necessary 5/8 masonry bit fit nice and snug inside the pipe...so much so that the head of the drill bit will not fit through. You must slide the drill bit up through the bottom of the guide before attaching the bit to the drill. I used a Bauer rotary hammer drill I got at Harbor Freight and a Bosch 5/8" x 12" (yes 12" is plenty long enough with my homemade drill guide) SDS Plus masonry bit I picked up at Home Depot and it worked great. As far as the whole light lean, heavy lean issue goes, I simply used a wood shim between my patio and the bottom of the guide. Slide it closer to the drill bit...heavy lean; further away from the bit...light lean. Line up the tip of the bit with the mark you made for the hole, step on each side of the piece of wood to hold the guide in place and drill til you bottom out the drill on the top of the guide. Piece of cake. Hope my review helps you decide to get this fence and save some serious money and get great results by building your own guide like I did.

I agree with all positive reviews. This is an amazing, high quality product. As mentioned in other reviews, rent a 1" minimum impact drill if you don't have one. I'd recommend a 2" to get through concrete like butter and make your holes pristine. The fence is more forgiving than I expected, but the light lean/heavy lean instructions are really helpful in making a nice looking install. I also agree that the drill guide is a must and the longer bit is crucial. I had a bit of trouble getting the pole sleeves in the concrete a couple of times, but it was because I hadn't gone through the hole with the drill a couple of extra times to get all of the bottom edges out. Another note, the printed instructions that come with a fence section do not match the online instructions. The paper version indicates that you should make the end pole holes for each section slightly closer to the second to last pole holes which gives you just a bit more slack when putting in and taking out the ends of each fence. Lastly, instead of hitting the sleeves into the drilled holes by putting something on top of the sleeve (like a piece of wood), I had good success in banging them in with an actual fence pole by inserting it into the sleeve and banging it down. This supports the tube so that you don't bend the top of the sleeve in a really tight hole. They are surprisingly expensive to replace. This is an excellent product, and I highly recommend it. I happen to be installing it the day after a close friend had a visiting child go to the hospital after falling into his pool. If you're hesitating, I can't encourage you enough to pull the trigger on this or some solution. I'd be happy to talk through my experience to decrease the intimidation factor.

I installed 2-1/2 sections to block access to the pool area (anchoring one end to the house and the other end to a stone wall. It looks great and seems quite sturdy. I found the Drill Guide helpful for getting all the poles vertical (the built-in bubble level ensures this even if the deck is angled a bit). Since I didn't figure I'd need the guide for anything beyond this project, I "rented" it from the manufacturer (call them at 561-316-6418)... I paid a deposit ($149), they paid for shipping to me, I paid for return shipping, and they return the deposit. Since it was about the same as a rental (and I would likely use it again), I purchased a rotary hammer drill (Bauer 1641E-B) from Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon and bought a bit (DEWALT DW5448) off Amazon for $20.57. I know they need to be child resistant, but I think the spring-loaded latches are pretty adult resistant too... install instructions are pretty good but the "pilot holes" for the latch and eye hook "between the top two screws" did not exist on the ones I received... not a big deal.

We just recently purchased a home with a pool, so I definitely wanted something to keep my 5 yr and 14 month old safe. Nothing replaces a careful eye and attention, but installing this fence sure gave me some piece of mind! Additionally, we purchased the self closing gate to bring it all together. My husband did all the work himself in two days. He recommends getting the drill guide as it helped him a lot. The sections are secured together by a little latching system that I still to this day have trouble releasing, so I'm not too worried about my kids separating them. We have had this fence up for 7 months now and it's going strong and withstanding the abuse the kids give it. My husband has attached labels to each section so that when he removes them- for parties and such, he can replace the sections with ease back in their rightful places. If you want to secure your pool this is for you. It is sturdy and will keep your kids out!

With a Milwaukee rotary hammer drill we drilled 60 holes alternating a couple batteries(3.5" concrete 30-45 second per hole) used 5/8"x18" SDS bit on Amazon for $25 . States requires 14" but I didn't see one. The drill guide was definitely a huge help on time and getting the sleeve holes straight. If you can DIY with 3 guys you'll finish in less than 4 hours. The instructions come in every 12 foot section. Just chalk it, make sure you keep track of the "new 12 length" piece. We drilled each 12 length holes at a time and set the sleeves as we drillled. We used a blower rather than water so it didn't mess with our chalk line. It was a lot easier to have 3 workers. Driller, blower and measure, pole sleeve setter and pole setter. We didn't over think the excess. Just pulled tight where we were going to overlap, unscrewed the set piece, set the pole and pulled the mesh tight and screwed right back into the pole. Might be an oversight in the long run, but we really didn't want to deal with the stapling and all that jazz. We had about 6' extra and plenty of "fence end fabricating" stuff if the fabric doesn't withhold our method of not using the stapled method in the instructions. *make sure you have chalk line to "square" pool * hammer drill(if not electric, extra batteries) small battery got us through 7 holes[yes,out of 60] *make sure you have 5/8"x14"+ SDS(concrete) bit *and as mentioned if you can have someone blow while you're drilling to avoid water on your chalk lines you can drill and measure every 12ft section as you go. *would still recommend starting the first couple sections from each side and making the end correction towards the back I was going to add photos, but I don't see the option

Works/looks like expected. I simply used zip ties to connect the panels which was easier than included hardware. I installed on a wood deck AFTER screwing in wood blocking underneath for support. Manufacturer recommends product for concrete pool pads but this is working fine. Is very sensative to installation so take your time. I drilled holes freehand which worked out reasonably well.

This appears to be a solidly built fence that is quite strong when installed. It is also fairly unobtrusive and attractive around the pool. It is very simple to install and remove. It remains to be seen if the material can hold up to a Phoenix, AZ summer with 120 degree heat and unrelenting sun from May to October. I’ll try to remember to post an update in 1 year. We rented a rotary hammer drill from the "Big Box Store” including the 18” drill bit for $50 for 4 hours. It took about 1 1/2 hours to drill 36 holes. It is quite quick if you plan every step ahead of time, recheck twice, and have some experience using power tools. We didn’t bother with the overpriced metal guide which seemed poorly made and overly fussy to be worth the money. We eye-balled the hole angles using a Carpenter’s Square for 90 degrees and an Sliding T-Bevel to set the lean. Speaking of lean, know one was able to quantify light lean vs heavy lean - Even the seller never returned my email. We used 2-4 degrees off 90 for light lean and 6-8 degrees off 90 for heavy lean. All our poles are standing straight so that must be about right. By the way, This isn’t rocket science. If you are off a degree or two, nobody is going to notice or care (unless you are OCD). We skipped the cheap spring hooks and screws (come on guys, there must be a better and less cheesy way to do this!). We purchased heavy-duty UV protected zip-ties with a 250 pound static load strength which is probably more than the supplied hooks. If you go this route, only use UV- stabilized zip-ties and replace them at least yearly, because they will deteriorate over time. The biggest negative are the sleeves and caps that go into the pool decking. They are not well-made and have sharp square edges rather than tapered edges. I predict that they will be toe-stubbers when the fence is not up.

Does exactly what we hoped it would do & looks great. We put in 2 holes in the concrete to hold the "doors" back when we have it opened,because we did not purchase an entrance gate. I love the look of 2 panels open as a doorway. In the photo we have one panel open as a doorway.

Just what we were looking for as a temporary way to keep visiting grandkids from wandering beyond our back patio. Drove PVC pipe into ground just off the patio rather than drilling into tiled surface. Fence can now be set up in less than 10 minutes when needed. Seems to be well constructed. We dont leave up for more than an occasional weekend, so I don't know how how well it would hold up to the elements if left up for a long period of time.